11 May 2019
Easy day today. We're hoping the wind blows us all the way to Bonar Bridge.
We take a while getting going, and then we go off track to get some breakfast. But the wind does as desired and the kilometres drop by.
This is called Flow Country. And it does. No big ups or downs, the terrain is gentle and flowing.
It's broadly uphill as far as Crask Inn, and broadly downhill thereafter. The inn is ancient, and a few years ago came to be owned by the church. It's proper remote. The current custodians seem to have a good handle on the balance of remote life and dependency on tourism.
From Crask on down is easy. After Lairg, national cycle route number one guides us off onto some quiet roads. We make a quick stop at the Shin Falls.
Bonar Bridge isn't as big as it looks. There's the bridge across the Kyle of Sutherland, but not much else. There's a single pub (drink; no food; rampant drunken nutters) and a single restaurant (showy clientele; prissy proprietor; food.) Between the two of them, we make it work, but it's a little tense and I've not warmed to the place.